Loving Fish to Death

Australians love their seafood, but are we loving it to death? On the eve of Sustainable Seafood Day (8 March), FMCA member Duncan Leadbitter, Regional Director, Asia Pacific Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), reports.

Australians now consume about 20kg of seafood per head per year. For 20 million people, that means we consume 400,000 tonnes of seafood each year, and that amount is growing.

But hang on a second. The total Australian commercial production is only about 230,000 tonnes per year. Moreover, tens of thousands of tonnes of Australian production are going overseas where other cultures pay high prices for species such as abalone, lobster and prawns. Demand significantly exceeds supply, and this has created three results. Firstly, we import a lot of seafood (some of it sustainably caught, some not). Secondly, we are developing aquaculture (fish farming), and, thirdly, we have pushed some local species too far. Globally, about a quarter of all fish stocks are overfished. Another 50% are termed "fully fished"; in other words, catches can't be expanded. Overfishing is a problem in a number of Australian fisheries - yet, given this, it is not uncommon to find overfished species for sale in Australian retail outlets.

And it's not just the headline species such as bluefin tuna or orange roughy; it's breadand-butter fish such as gemfish, silver trevally and redfish, amongst others. To many people, sustainability in fisheries is obvious. We should be assuring that the fish we are taking come from a healthy stock which continues to produce year after year. Sure, the catches may go up and down due to natural factors, but they shouldn't disappear from our tables totally.

Fishing, like any other human activity, has environmental consequences which may be acceptable or unacceptable, but causing the extinction of species is very different. Some fishing methods, if operated poorly, can have major impacts. Longlining was thought to be a method which reduced fishing impacts, and it did, compared with trawling, but has had devastating effects on seabirds and marine turtles. Even simple fishing hooks, if used improperly, can cause problems.

The solution is not to ban everything but to manage the activities in a better manner. It is quite easy to substantially reduce the catch of seabirds and turtles: the effects of trawls can be reduced and constrained, and gillnets can be made more mammal-friendly. Aquaculture is sometimes touted as the solution to commercial fishing impacts. It is a necessary component of seafood production and has a big future. But it also has its own problems, which also require effective management. If the wild harvest fisheries and aquaculture producers manage their own impacts, then there can be more seafood for everybody.

What does all this mean for the buyers and consumers of seafood? Is it simply OK to say that it is somebody else's job to sort out the fishing impacts? There is clear evidence that not all traditional fisheries are managed effectively, and thus it is not OK.

So, how can buyers and consumers make choices which favour sustainability? The obvious way is to buy species which are produced in a sustainable manner. However, without a degree in fisheries and a wireless internet connection at the supermarket, how can consumers instantly recognise fish from sustainable fisheries? Eco labelling has been around for years. Organic products have been growing in availability for years and organic labels, backed by credible verification (certification) schemes, provide assurance to consumers.

Buyers of white goods can check energy use and water use ratings at a glance on product labelling. For seafood, the same choice is available through the Marine Stewardship Council, a global seafood certification and labelling body. The MSC is a non-government organisation which has a standard for sustainable fisheries. Candidate fisheries which meet stringent environmental guidelines can carry the MSC's distinctive blue label on their product.

For consumers to select such labelled products requires knowledge about the issues and the MSC's easy-to-implement solution. Educating consumers is expensive and time-consuming and beyond the resources of a non-government organisation. However the MSC's growing success has been closely linked to the leadership of knowledgeable and committed spokespersons for seafood, such as chefs and major retailers. Those who speak up and gain media coverage help carry the message. Those who make commitments to sourcing sustainable seafood create market demand, and send signals to those who don't do the right thing that the market for unsustainable product is slowly drying up.

In many respects it's a simple concept but it's all voluntary. The MSC has to convince a large number of people, but the runs are coming thick and fast. Last year the giant American retailer Wal Mart made the commitment to MSC labelled seafood. Aeon, the largest retailer in Japan, has started to stock MSC labelled seafood. Chefs such as Rick Stein have been long-time supporters. For those who make this commitment there is a growing network of like-minded people in restaurants, retail and the bulk-food service industry.

For us to continue loving our seafood for generations to come, the status quo cannot continue. Sure, traditional fishing controls will remain a key contributor, but enlightened and committed individuals can play a vital role. The MSC provides a mechanism which enables this to happen in a way which allows consumers, chefs and seafood buyers to make the right choice.

The MSC is urging Australians who love their seafood to participate in Sustainable Seafood Day on Thursday 8 March by demanding evidence of sustainable fishing practices from their seafood suppliers. Go to www.msc.org

Excerpt from February foodService magazine.